Japan part 3: Japanese Alps, Snow Storms and Monkeys
Sitting in the sunlight here in Byron bay is a vast change from my time spent in Japan. However, the feeling of cold and rain sticks in my mind as a reminder of things I love that are not only beaches and minimal clothing; Sweaters, rolling clouds, dark forest and the relief of hot tea.
As we went from the bright bustling cities of Tokyo, Hiroshima, and Kyoto I had a sense of calm creep into me. It isn't that I don't love cities, especially Japanese ones, but my heart lies in the mountains and quiet places. I understand these places. I can orient myself and my entire being in them without the obstruction of sky-scrapers and noise. We traveled by bus from Tokyo, winding through mountains shadowed by leafless trees, popping in and out of tunnels just long enough to get a good look at the valleys before they were gone again. We would stop at rest stations along the highway, a popular place to get a bite to eat and pick up any last minute "Omiyagi" of whatever prefecture we happened to be in. I spot Rock spires jutting out of the gentle forest between naps and wonder if people here climb them, only to fall asleep again. Lulled by the hum of the silent bus.
Nagano, the main hub to get into the mountains on the main island is crisp and clear. Kids all bundled up hold hands walking the sidewalk, brightly coloured and topped with matching hats. We stay long enough for me to browse the bookstore in the station and sip a coffee. Not being our final destination of the trip to the mountains. The next bus pulls in, A city bus with only a handful of people going to Togakushi; a small mountain town for hiking access, soba and Wasabi. Two out of the three I love, feel free to guess which. There are no local busses in the winter leading to the shrine we wanted to visit. But the hike through the birch trees covered in snow was well worth it. The tori gates, one stone and one wood lead to a trail lined with massive red cedars, guiding us towards the mountain shrine in snow. We wolfed down Soba and tea and headed back into Nagano. Staying one night at the Zenkoji temple to take part in both the Shinto and Joto sect's prayer Ceremony at six am. Meditating right in front of the monks, chanting unanimously.
Centred and ready to move to the next place we boarded the bus to the Monkey Onsen, up high in the mountains. We where told that recently it hasn't been cold enough for the monkeys to actually be in the spring. Thankfully we visited on a snowy day as more than fifty where hanging around the hot pool, let alone along the riverside. They all chattered with each-other as the crowds of tourists huddled in the get a photo. Not as though I'm separate from the group, I was definitely being "A Tourist." Sometimes its simply unavoidable when it comes to joining the herd. Thats O.K.
