Japan pt. 1: Arrival
I take along sip of green tea while my uncle continues his story, savouring the heat of the drink. Going directly from thirty degrees and humidity that clings to your skin to eight above zero and wind that stings the cheek was a bit of a rude shock. I knew it would be cold of course, it is winter here after all. But the reality was still going to take some time to adjust to, even for someone born to the snow and mountains. My skin had been kissed by the sun and no longer wanted to feel anything else but warmth.
“Anyways, were going to go into downtown Tokyo tomorrow, I have to work but feel free to come in with us and cruise around at your own pace.” I almost forget that we aren't technically in Tokyo currently. Straddling the border of the Tokyo city boundary and the true country side, I mean that literally, the boundary is cut down the middle of the street and we are on the Tokyo side. An hour by train from “downtown” but still not country side by my definition. Farms tucked into the buildings, growing vegetables and rice but not true countryside.
My aunt interjects, “Its going to be really busy when we go. Its rush hour to get to the city. So if we get to Shin-yurigaoka and its a packed train you don't have to come if you not want to. Its very busy.”
I laugh, partially masking my nerves about travelling on trains by myself in Tokyo. Small town northern British Columbia in a city with a larger population than all of Canada, The nerves are understandable.
My uncle sees through the facade, “Im sure theres almost the entire population of Smithers on one of the trains come to think of it.”
I take another sip of tea and a mouthful of soba. The onset water still soaked into my hair. I’ll be fine. I know i’ll be okay. If i can navigate with a map, compass and GPS in the mountains surely a city full of people and a modest amount of english signs shouldn't be out of my depths. I just need to picture all of the people around me as trees and it will basically be the same. Change of scenery. The sky scrapers are my mountains for the month, the People the trees and the sidewalks are my trail. God that sounds far to profound for what I'm really feeling as I nervously shuffle around the station my uncle has left me at.
The morning comes, bright and early we leave for Kurihara station. I’m still half awake after a long travel day the day before and a chilly sleep on the futon. We arrive at the small, un assuming station and I think to myself ‘Surely this wont be that bad. were in the country side. It must only be closer to Tokyo city that it will get busy.’
And before I knew it I'm pressed between my Aunt and a business man, half awake yet still standing. I find a bit of myself in everyone on this train all half asleep like myself, huddled together like penguins, fittingly so in suits come to think of it. Apparently this isn't that bad. I’ve seen videos of train staff pushing people into the cars so that as many as possible fit. Thank god thats not the current situation. Thank god I'm not claustrophobic.
Directions are totally lost on me as we switch trains, going from platform to platform like a choreographed dance of a thousand people. I look to my right at one point, and over the shoulder of someone else I see a boy about sixteen maybe, dressed in uniform for school bent backwards in half over the ledge by the door of the train. Bent in half in the most casual, nonchalant way I have ever seen. As if this was his morning yoga practice before class.
After short coffee anda view of the city from the office building my uncle works inI'm on my own. Staring at maps and brochures trying to decide what my best options for the day are. The Instinctual dread of being in a massive unfamiliar city starts to settle in. I know full well I can handle this myself; after all, I had gotten to japan myself. I had been through showing up to my flight in Oahu twelve hours early and casually returning to Waikiki to sun bathe on the beach while I waited. I had been navigating the streets and highways in Bali by scooter, rain or shine, cops or cattle on the road for a month. Safe, organized public transit would be nothing.
I shake off the nerves like I shake the water from my ears after surfing. Kidding, I don't do that delicately in the slightest. I had no real direction in mind, simply wanting to soak in the area like a sponge for a while, get a feel for Japan. I wander Shinjuku aimlessly, its busy, but in the most organized way. People coming and going from place to place, picking up bit of conversations I cant understand.
Within the next couple days of having time on my own I settle into myself more and more each day, confidence growing with each train ticket.
I visit places that become more andmore colourful. Maybe not literally but I start to pick up on more and more. I break out of myself and explore on my own, growing more and more excited to be where i am. right now.
The streets come alive with people at all hour of the day, ever changing and growing and coming and going. there is so much energy here. Its palpable. Its in the air and It gets into your bones.
I visit Harajuku, Akihabara at night, Shibuya. each place has its own niche. They're all so close but all so unique. Cat Cafes, Cute stores, Anime, Tech mega centres, karaoke and local food markets. Anything you can imagine and you can probably find it in Tokyo. Hell I could have spent the entire month just in Greater Tokyo, and probably still not covered everything there is to do and see there.
We made it to the 47 Ronin festival in Shinigawa and watched them re-enact the march of the Ronin into the temple, carrying the “severed head”. Half carnival half paying the respects to the ronin. We traded off mugs of Amazake and candied fruits for incense to give as offerings to each of the 47 ronin. Kids ran around and played at game tents set up between food vendors. I did an interview with some college students about the festival, my uncle translated.
The amount of life in the city is amazing, unlike any I've been to before. Every corner has someone making a living, or some human element to it. Some history. Life is flowing everywhere. Its incredible and overwhelming and inspiring to behold.
And I've only been here a few days.
